Dirt bike suspension gives the dirt bike smoothness while riding in trails or rail tracks and maintains wheel traction. The dirt bike with the best suspension gives the rider the best smooth riding on the rail track.
The best suspension dives the flexibility to bike to handle any hard jump shock while riding. But it is worthless to have the best suspension for a dirt bike if you don’t know to set up and tune the suspension and how it works. So to get all the working of the dirt bike right, firstly, we need to start with the fundamentals and then check the rider and static sag.
Secondly, matching the different terrains for rides, you need to set the comparison and rebound quickly. Lastly, we need to adjust the fork suspension to check the front wheel handles and then end with the shock to affect the rear. In addition, the most important work is to maintain the suspension check daily or before going on a ride.
Check the screws and setup of the dirt bike suspension and measurement of the rider sage. Following are the steps to adjust the dirt bike suspension:
- Measure the rider sag.
- Adjust the rider sag.
- Account and measure the static sag.
- Stiffen the front fork.
- Rebound adjustment.
In the above mentioned, these are some important suspensions.
Measure the Rider Sag
- Start by getting the motorcycle off the floor.
- Take a size directly up from the elevated axle bolt.
- Have a comrade with you to measure again at the same time as you are on the motorcycle.
Start by Getting the Motorcycle off The Floor
Rider sag (additionally known as weighted down sag or called a race sag) is the quantity the suspension compress from the burden of the motorcycle and rider.
For measurement, you first want to understand what your motorcycle looks like without any mass or weight. Then, put the motorcycle on a stand; both wheels must be off the floor and get a comrade because it is a two-individual job.
- Start right here; every time you are doing an intensive suspension test, it is quality to get it proper, then modify the entirety around it.
- Don’t test the sag proper after riding. These measurements would be the simplest accurate while your motorcycle is cooled down.
- You will want a boost stand or a hydraulic stand to place the wheels inside the air, now no longer on the floor or the platform. If you do not have any, have a person carry the motorcycle’s rear until there is no weight at the rear wheel.
Take a size directly up from the elevated axle bolt.
Get a tape and measure it as vertical as soon from the middle of the elevate wheel. Choose any factor in which the tape and a measure intersect with your motorcycle body, mark all the steps and write down all the measurements.
- Use tape metric tape is best for this case to measure with mm (millimeter) markings. The help of metric tape gives you precision reading that is your actual need, and you have to match the gadgets for your owner’s manual.
- The actual factor would not matter, so long as you mark it. You’re going to apply this size as a contrast to look at how much your motorcycle sags with mass or weight on it.
Have a comrade with you to measure again at the same time as you are on the motorcycle.
Return the motorcycle to the floor and get on it. Repeat the equal size between the elevated axle bolt after that marks all the measurements you made. The rider sag is the quantity this distance changed. In other words, the first dimension you mark minus you is the 2nd dimension that equals a rider sag.
Follow all the tips that are given below to get accurate results:
- Firstly get on your motorcycle in your best riding position; your toes should be on the bolt, at the same time as carrying or keeping your gear.
- Bounce at the elevated suspension earlier than measuring. The little jostle is enabled to conquer constriction and settle a suspension into the natural role.
The Ideal Rider Sag
It is typically around 100mm; however, your owner’s guide knows exceptional. It’s exceptional to hold the rider sag inside the variety set with the aid of using your manufacturer and “sag window.” But as a well-known rule, maximum dust motorcycles with an engine length of 125cc are designed for the rider sag between 95 to105mm.
Typical motorcycles inside the 85 -100cc variety work exceptionally with the rider sag between 80 to 90mm, and maximum motorcycles inside the 50- 65cc variety work exceptionally with the rider sag around 70mm.
- You also can consider sag as a percent of travel or the overall vertical distance the suspension of your motorcycle can moving. Ideally, the rider sag is typically around 30% of the travel.
Adjust the Rider Sag
Change the elevate shock and spring to pre-load a tweak to the rider sag. Tighten its shock collar to compress it, and the spring upload more pre-load. It pushes up some more pressure and reduces a sag. Loosen its shock collar to reduce tension at the spring, growing sag, and make all your suspensions should softer. Most dust motorcycle shock springs are held through metallic collars and lock nuts on the top.
To alter spring pre-load without a unique device, you can first loosen its top collar and the lock nut by putting a punch device or the blunt chisel towards it, then hanging the stop with the mallet. Once that is loose, alter the lowest collar and nut through hand to tighten and loosen the spring. Tighten its top collar once more as soon as you are done.
Turn a collar into clockwise (searching from above), and to tighten and counter-clockwise is to loosen. According to a rule of thumb, one complete rotation of the lock nut is two or three mm of a sag adjustment. Mark one fringe of the nut to music this.
Account & Measure The Static Sag
Measure the quantity that your motorcycle sinks below its weight. Start together along with your motorcycle with a stand that places 0 weight at the wheels. Measure the space in mm from the elevate axle bolt without delay upward to the point or any factor at the motorcycle body, and make sure you mark that factor or a point with a pencil or a pen. Now placed the motorcycle at the ground, without a rider or equipment, and measure the identical points between them.
The quantity this size has modified is called static sag. For example, if you measure 580mm inside the air and 540mm at the ground, the static sag is 580 – 540 = 40mm. When you already get the size of the measurements of the rider sag (which is suggested earlier than doing this), you have already got the primary size. Check your owner’s guide for the static goal sag.
As we know about the rule of thumb, a dust motorcycle with a 125cc or large engine commonly desires a static sag between 25 -30 mm, while smaller motorcycles may have a static goal sag little as 8 to 10 mm. That said, it is constantly exceptional to test the owner’s guide to your model.
Stiffen the Front Fork
Compression clicker turns to modify fork stiffness. Wind clockwise in the direction of the “H” for more difficult compression. Stiff compression is higher for smooth terrains like sand and large or rolling bumps and hills.
Wind counter-clockwise in the direction of the “S” for the softer compression. It is exceptional for difficult terrain complete of small bumps. If your compression clickers are unlabeled, look at your owner’s guide to picking them out.
Firstly turn rebound clickers in your forks. Looking for a flathead screw labeled with “R” on the top or backside of your forks. Twist this “compression clicker” one, and after that, you can clicks at a time between check rides the usage of a flathead screwdriver.
It is controls how speedy the forks upward push up once more when they compress. Wind clockwise is toward “H” (hard) for the slower rebound. Your motorcycle will deal with higher and over rolling hills or massive bumps.
Suppose its rebound is sluggish sufficient to allow the wheel to hug on the ground, rather than skipping up or down. Wind counter-clockwise is toward “S” (soft) for a quicker rebound. A speedy rebound, we could see your fork pass fast to modify to speedy modifications on bumpy ground. Check your proprietor guide in case your clickers are not labeled.
Secondly, adjust its shock rebounded clicker. Now search for a comparable screw on an elevate of your motorcycle, nearly usually on the lowest of a shock. It works similar to the front rebound clicker, now controlling the shock rebound over the elevate wheel.
You will want a comrade to push down at the motorcycle seat to shift the things around or make the clicker accessible on some motorcycles. Some motorcycles have an easy hand-grew to become wheel across the base of a shock in place of a screw.